I grew up in Southern California (310 represent, baby!) and I’ve always loved the beach and the ocean. I learned to surf as a Junior Lifeguard when I was 10 years old. I’m not great, but I do love it. When I moved to North Carolina it meant living as far from the ocean as I’d ever lived. That was really unsettling for me. So when I got to NC, one of the first things that I started looking for on Craigslist was a surfboard. As soon as I found a good deal on a decent board, I snatched it up and IMMEDIATELY felt a sense of relief wash over me. Security blanket effect, for sure. In the five years that I’ve owned it, I’ve surfed it three times total. In fact, I’ve surfed way more often on my old boards at home when visiting my family back in SoCal, haha. But I’m always going to own a surfboard out here in NC, regardless of how little use it sees. I realize that, logically, this makes no sense. But I don’t care. And I have a feeling I’m not alone. But you tell me… Am I?

Source: My amazing sister Jamie who works with kids at Camp Galileo

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